From Sports Shoe to Collectible: Are Sneakers Considered Art?

At first sneakers were just sports shoes, later they became a fashion item and we wore them everywhere. Until a group of people decided to keep them in the box, not out of a lack of love, but because they’re such a solid investment. ‘Many collectors buy two pairs of the sneakers they really want: one to rock, and one to stock.’

Sneakers: from sport to statement

Sneakers have been beyond hype for at least a decade. We don’t need to tell you anymore that sneakers have truly broken through, and that even die-hard pump fans have realized that old-school elegance doesn’t always outweigh comfort and cool.

Like the cool kids

Marilyn Monroe and Keith Andes posed in 1952 in jeans with sneakers to promote the film Clash by Night. Two decades later everyone brought out their Converse All Stars again thanks to Danny Zuko in Grease. Michael Jordan lent his name in 1984 to one of the most iconic sneaker models ever.

The late Virgil Abloh, creative director of Louis Vuitton and Off-White: “Young people value sneakers more highly than a Matisse.”

In the new millennium collaborations started between sneaker brands and designers like Yohji Yamamoto, Jeremy Scott and later Kanye West. Today the sneaker has grown into a universal fashion item.

Big business

Sneakers are big business. In 2020 an estimated 1 billion pairs were sold worldwide. Flipping, buying and reselling sneakers for profit, is a lucrative practice. Brands like Nike sell limited releases only via raffles and give loyal customers priority through ‘loyalty scores’.

EXPO: Sneakers Unboxed

Until October 16, 2022 the exhibition Sneakers Unboxed can be seen at the Design Museum Den Bosch. The expo looks back at the history of the sneaker and ahead to innovations and sustainability. Part of the expo is the podcast SneakEars.

The collector: Klaara De Vos

Klaara De Vos (21) is a sneaker influencer and owns about 130 pairs. She wears all her sneakers and doesn’t see herself as a classic investor. Her top piece: a Jordan 1 x Off-White, bought for €600, now worth €4,000.

The seller: Frank Klerks of Outsole

Frank Klerks, founder of Outsole, compares sneakers to Rolex watches: they hold their value – unless they age or fall apart. His tip: buy two pairs – one to wear, one to keep.

The most expensive sneakers ever

Are sneakers art? When they fetch millions at auctions, like:

• Solid Gold OVO x Air Jordans: $2 million – made entirely of gold for Drake.

• Nike Air Yeezy 1 ‘Prototype’: $1.8 million – worn by Kanye West during the Grammys.

• Michael Jordan’s Airship: $1.47 million – worn during his first season with the Bulls.

De Standaard | by Ingeborg Deleye | May 14, 2022